Living with Wildlife in Los Alamos County

Living with Large Predators...

Large predators in Los Alamos County include mountain lions, black bears, bobcats and coyotes. They can at times be dangerous. However, with a better understanding of these animals, we can learn to coexist. There are no definite rules about what to do if you meet a large predator. In most cases, the animal will detect you first and will leave the area.

Below is information about a variety of wildlife found on the Pajarito Plateau. New animals will be added throughout the year as we highlight an animal each month throughout 2024.

To learn more about living with wildlife, visit the NM Game & Fish website at www.lacnm.com/NMGF. For information on how to contact NM Game and Fish, visit the Contact Us page on their website.

Living with Large Predators

Watch for wildlife on the roadways during the winter months...

As the temperature drops, the days are getting shorter, and more vehicles will be on the road at times when wildlife, including larger mammals, are most active: dusk and dawn.

Wildlife in roadways can be dangerous for both motorists and animals. Even smaller animals, such as cottontails and jackrabbits, can prove to be hazardous as motorists break or swerve to avoid a collision.

Follow these simple tips and information that can help reduce the chances of a potentially dangerous collision:

Slow down and look for movement. This simple step can help motorists avoid a potential disaster. Slowing down doesn’t just help avoid a collision; it can reduce the impact in the event a large animal is hit.

Avoid other distractions within the car, such as texting. Distractions increase the risk of a collision with unexpected wildlife in the roadway.

Watch for herd animals. Drivers should also note that when one herd animal, such as deer, is spotted, there may be more in the area.

Expect the unexpected. Male deer and elk behavior can be unpredictable during the rut. They may dart straight out in the road.

Some of the best forage can be found alongside roadways, especially during times of drought or seasonal green-up, making it particularly attractive to numerous animals. This increases the likelihood of collisions with wildlife.

REMEMBER, the easy path is the plowed one. Once winter weather sets in, elk are often on roads because it's easier to travel and burns less energy than walking through snow. Elk are more likely to move to areas where snow is plowed.

Bear Encounters in Open Space: Ways to Avoid, How to Respond

There are many simple steps you can take to discourage bears from getting into your stuff and avoid bear encounters. Teaching bears to associate cars, trails, campsites, and people with food doesn’t just dampen outdoor fun. It also creates unnecessary risk for you and your family and can have deadly consequences for bears. Doing your homework and taking some simple precautions can help keep people safe and bears wild.

When Parking at a Trailhead: Lock it, Hide it or Lose it

Stash anything you’re leaving behind securely out of sight in your locked vehicle. A glimpse of a cooler or a sack full of snacks or the scent of fruit-flavored chewing gum or an empty bottle of energy drink could tempt a bear to explore your vehicle while you’re out exploring its home turf. Black bears are very strong with nimble claws and can easily open most unlocked car doors or peel down a partially open window. Leaving a window cracked open or an unlocked door is an invitation to come on in and see if there’s anything good to eat. But once inside, bears often have to chew and claw their way out. Why take chances? Stash, roll up, and lock up before you leave.

Let Bears Know You’re There

Make noise periodically, and most wildlife, including bears, will avoid you. Don’t rely on bear bells to alert bears to your presence. Your own voice is more effective. No need to continuously blast your air horn or whistle. Just use your outdoor voice to carry on a conversation, even if you’re only talking to yourself. Or burst into song now and then, especially when you’re hiking, jogging, or cycling through dense vegetation, around blind curves, or by a noisy stream where it might be easy to surprise a bear - or vice versa.

What Should You Do if You See a Black Bear?

• Seeing a black bear in the wild is an unforgettable experience. While bear attacks are very uncommon and black bears rarely become aggressive when encountered, knowing how to respond if you do see a bear will help you relax and appreciate these special moments.
• If you see a bear before it notices you, stand still, observe, and enjoy, then quietly move away. Never approach bears or try to creep in closer for a close-up photo or a better look.
• If a bear sees you, stay calm, stay with your group, and back away slowly. Never run; running can trigger a chase response, and you can’t outrun a bear.
• If a bear approaches, stand still, hold your ground, wave your arms, and yell until it leaves. “Hey Bear” is a popular choice. If a bear continues to approach, use your bear spray.
• In the unlikely event a black bear makes physical contact with you, fight back aggressively with anything at hand. Never play dead. People have successfully deterred bears with hiking poles, rocks, water bottles, binoculars, and even their bare hands.

Carry Bear Spray and Know How to Use It

Bear spray has been proven to be the easiest and most effective way to deter a bear that threatens you. Bear spray is a deterrent; it doesn’t work like bug repellent. NEVER spray yourself or your tent, campsite or belongings. Bear spray can’t help you if it’s buried in the bottom of your pack. Carry it in a handy holster or somewhere it’s quickly accessible. Check the expiration date before you leave home. And brush up on the bear spray basics to understand how to use it effectively. Local regulations on using bear spray may vary, so know before you go. 

Be BEAR aware in spring...

Come spring, the black bears of the Pajarito Plateau are waking up from their long winter nap. Bears eat almost anything available (i.e. insects, nuts and berries, plant matter, fish, birds, small mammals, and carrion), but rarely kill larger prey. Bears who have found available human sources, such as trash cans, gardens, and fruit trees, are more likely to seek them again. Follow these tips and tricks to minimize encounters as bears begin to look for food:

• Never intentionally feed bears to attract them for viewing. 
• Don’t leave pet food or food dishes outdoors overnight.
• Never leave fruit from trees and bushes to rot on the ground as it is a powerful attractant to bears.
• Bring in bird feeders at night. These are high-calorie treats, and bears may stay and look for other food sources nearby.
• Never put meat or sweet-smelling food scraps in your compost pile.
• Clean and store outdoor grills after use. Bears can smell sweet barbecue sauce and grease for miles.
• Store garbage properly at all times. Only put roll carts out the morning of your trash pick up, and use bear-proof containers when available. 

If You Encounter a Bear:

• If a bear comes near your home, camp, or picnic, scare it away by making noise from a safe distance: yell, clap hands, bang pots together, use an air horn.
• Never try to get closer to a bear for a photo.
• Don’t corner a bear; give it an escape route.
• Alert your neighbors or people in the area.

Outdoor Safety:

• Hike in groups and stay together, especially kids.
• If you see a bear, watch quietly from a safe distance (at least 50 yards or 10 car lengths for black bears).
• Never approach.
• Never run from a bear.
• Carry bear spray (if permitted) and know how to use it.

Bears and Dogs:

• Keep dogs on non-retractable leashes at all times. Don’t force a bear to defend itself.
• Don’t let dogs bark at, harass, chase, or corner a bear.
• Store pet food inside and feed dogs inside, if possible. Never leave food/water bowls outside.
• If your dog gets into an encounter with a bear, don’t try to rescue it. You will get injured. Use bear spray; it works from 30 feet away.

Learn to be bear wise at home:

Follow these tips at home to prevent bear encounters and help keep bears wild:

Around Homes and Outbuildings:

• Doors and windows in houses and outbuildings should be kept closed and locked, especially at night or when people are not home. Pay special attention to sliding glass, inward-swinging, French, and doors with lever handles.
• Crawl spaces and small openings under your home and other buildings need to be barricaded before hibernation.
• Refrigerators and freezers are kept inside sturdy, locked buildings.
• Attractants are not stored on upper-level balconies or decks that bears can reach by climbing stairs, trees, or deck posts. Garage doors are kept closed.
• Coolers with food and drinks are not stored on the porch, patio, deck, or in a vehicle.
• Pet doors are locked at night.

BBQ Grills and Smokers:

• Grills and smokers should be stored inside when not in use.

If not: 

• Drip pans and grates are cleaned after every use.
• Grills and smokers should be kept covered.
• Utensils are stored indoors.
• Food is not left unattended when cooking or eating outdoors.

Trash & Recycling:

• All trash containers are cleaned often to reduce odors.
• Recycling is rinsed out and clean.
• Bear-resistant trash containers are always closed and latched.

If containers are not bear-resistant:

• Regular trash cans are stored inside a sturdy, locked building or bear-resistant enclosure.
• Garbage is put out the morning of pick up (not the night before).

Composting in Bear Country

It is hard to keep compost from being an attractant. There are different compost configurations and set-ups users can consider that may limit the attractant. Composting in an enclosed (mostly enclosed) container can be a good approach. Portable, barrel-type composters that can go inside a garage or shed can really help reduce the chance for encounters. Next best option would be to use in-ground compost bins that can be buried, limiting scent dispersal. Another tool to help is electric fencing, which works well at deterring bears.

Another approach is to be selective in the types of materials added to the compost. Limiting the “green” components of compost to coffee, quick composting grain products, or non-fragrant vegetable scraps would help to limit the appeal. Fruits are going to be a major attractant.

Keep these additional suggestions in mind:

• Storing Food-Containing Compost in a Secure Area: If food scraps are included, keeping compost bins in a bear-inaccessible place like a garage or shed can help keep bears away.
• Using a Bear-Resistant Bin: Thick plastic or metal bins with locks or latches are designed to be bear-resistant. However, it’s important to remember to always secure the latches, and even these bins aren’t guaranteed to keep bears out.
• Turning Compost Frequently: Regularly turning compost helps reduce odors, which can make it less attractive to bears. I think combining this with a bear-resistant container may further reduce bear interest.

Are you a bear-wise dog owner?

Research shows that dogs have been involved in the majority of incidents involving people and black bears. Many of those dogs were injured or killed; the people trying to protect their dogs were often injured as well. Take time to discover why bears and dogs naturally don’t get along and how you and your dog can live responsibly in bear country. 

Why Bears and Dogs Don’t Get Along

Black bears are neither confrontational nor aggressive by nature. As a species, black bears evolved in forested habitats, where they learned to respond to danger and avoid trouble by climbing a tree or disappearing into the woods. When those options aren’t available, a bear’s natural instinct for self-preservation kicks in, and the bear will defend itself, its food, or its cubs.

Dog behavior is more complex; not all dogs bark for the same reasons. Some breeds bark, lunge, and bite out of fear; others have an innate drive to bark and chase. Protective breeds may be trying to guard their humans. And some dogs just really love to bark. not all dogs bark for the same reasons. Some breeds bark, lunge, and bite out of fear; others have an innate drive to bark and chase. Protective breeds may be trying to guard their humans. And some dogs just really love to bark. To a bear, however, your dog’s motivation doesn’t matter. A barking, lunging, snapping, or chasing dog is seen as a threat. It’s very likely the bear will respond by defending itself.

Out Walking Your Dog?

• Keep your dog on a non-retractable leash at all times.
• Carry bear spray and know how to use it.
• Stay alert; music and phones are distracting.
• Avoid walking at dawn, dusk or at night in areas with known bear activity.
• If you see a bear, turn around and leave.
• Don’t let your dog bark at, harass, chase, or corner a bear.
• If your dog gets into a fight with a bear, don’t try to rescue it. You will get injured. Instead, use your bear spray.

Living With Dogs In Bear Country

• Feed pets indoors. If you must feed pets outside, feed only single portions and remove bowls as soon as your pet is finished.
• Keep your dog on a non-retractable leash even if you’re just going to the car.
• Install motion-activated security lights. Check the yard and bang on your door before you let your dog out.
• If you see a bear, bring your dog inside. Don’t allow it to bark at or harass the bear, even from inside a fenced yard.
• Pet doors should open into completely enclosed areas; some bears can squeeze through openings as small as nine inches high. Cubs (and other critters you don’t want in the house) can fit through even smaller openings.
• If your dog gets into an encounter with a bear, don’t try to rescue it. If you can do so from a safe distance, use your bear spray or a high-powered garden hose.

What Black Bears Do in August:

How Bears Beat the Heat

Bears don’t have sweat glands, so they can’t cool off the way people do when it gets hot. They do lose much of the dense underfur that helps keep them warm when temperatures drop. Shedding lets air circulate while still “shading’ their skin from the sun. Bears will also pant like dogs and dissipate heat through their paws and other areas with little hair. They avoid the hottest parts of the day and often relax in daybeds under a nice shady tree, or sometimes seek shelter from the sun on a shady patio, under decks and porches, or in crawl spaces. They’ve also been known to plop down in the kiddie pool or koi pond, run through the sprinklers and do laps in the pool.

Cubs Are Weaned

Most cubs are weaned during August, giving mom a chance to focus on fattening up herself along with her cubs. Cubs may continue to nurse if they’re permitted to, but it’s time for them to start feeding themselves.  Cubs still stick together and follow mom around learning the finer points of foraging. These lessons will be very important next year when they go out on their own. Cubs born this year typically weigh between 25 and 40 pounds in August. While most cubs of the year will stay with their moms until next spring, once they are weaned cubs are often capable of surviving on their own if they have to.

August Means Berry Good Eating

Berries, called soft mast, are a very important food source for bears. Blueberries, raspberries, wild plums, blackberries, pin cherry, chokecherry, crab apples, serviceberries, viburnum, paw paws and other seasonal berries ripen in July and August. Berries are small and grow in dispersed patches; a pound of most wild berries has fewer than 300 calories, leading bears to seek and eat as many as possible.  Once a bear finds a good patch it will spend many hours patiently stripping off the berries with its tongue and lips.

Social Signals Influence Bears

In August and September many bears travel extensively throughout and even beyond their home ranges searching for those elusive bumper crops of berries and nuts. How do they know where to go? Some head to reliable sources they’ve used in the past. Some bears rely on other bears to lead the way. A bear’s nose is so sensitive it can decode a lot of information just by sniffing claw marks, tracks and scat. Those scents left behind can help them decide if they want to follow along.

Bad Food Years Impact Travel

You might think that a bear would naturally go exploring if it was slim pickings at home, but bears seem to have an ability to figure out if a food failure is local or widespread. If it’s local, they will leave. If it was a widespread regional failure, like a late frost or an insect infestation or natural disaster that wiped out berry crops, many bears will actually stick closer to home and explore all their options. That’s because traveling long distances and burning lots of calories for no reward isn’t a good investment of bear energy.

To read more about black bear behavior and find additional resources, visit BearWise.org

About the Bobcat

One of the four species of lynx, these wildcats are around twice the size of the average domestic cat and are fierce predators. Found throughout much of North America, they live in a diverse range of habitats, including forests, grasslands, swamps, deserts, and even roam into suburban areas. Although they are the most common wildcat in North America, these elusive, nocturnal animals are rarely seen by humans.

Bobcats can be identified by their short, black-tipped tail, which gives the species its name because it appears to be cut or “bobbed.” The tip of the tail is black all around, and the underside of a bobcat’s tail is white.

Bobcats live in warmer climates than their lynx cousins, so they have thinner coats and smaller paws without any of the 

Fun Facts About Bobcats

• Bobcats emit an eerie scream that can be heard for miles. 
• A bobcat's personal territory can span up to 30 square miles for males and five square miles for females. These territories are clearly marked by the bobcat's urine and/or feces.
• Bobcats have excellent vision and hearing and a well-developed sense of smell.
• Unlike the domesticated house cat, bobcats enjoy the water and are very good swimmers.
• As incredibly skilled climbers, bobcats easily maneuver around rocky terrain and climb tall trees when pursuing their prey.
• Bobcats are quiet hunters who pounce on their prey and kill it with one bite. These large cats are known to leap up to ten feet in the air.
• Bobcat tracks are easy to distinguish - roundish paw, four toes, and no claw markings. 

About the Coyote

Late January through early March is the mating season for coyotes and they become more active during this time. Be proactive to prevent conflicts with coyotes with these actionable tips:

Protect pets

Dogs should always be supervised and on a leash. During the breeding season, coyotes become very active marking and defending their territories to protect their pack from other coyotes.

Remove food sources

Coyotes will utilize whatever food is available, including small animals, insects, and fruits, as well as artificial sources such as garbage, pet food, and compost.

Hazing

If you see a coyote in your yard, you should aggressively “haze” it by chasing it out of the yard, making loud noises, and throwing small objects, if needed, ensuring not to harm the coyote. Repeated hazing helps teach coyotes they are not welcome there.

Don’t be intimidated

It’s important to note that negative encounters with coyotes are rare, and attacks on people are even more rare. Do not be fearful of them.

Seek help if appropriate

Coyotes can be active at any time of day; however, if you encounter a coyote with concerning behavior like approaching leashed pets, closely following people, or not running off when hazed, contact NM Game & Fish for assistance.During the coyote's mating season, they become more active and visible in the community.

What does “hazing” mean?

Hazing does not harm the coyote. It is a method that makes use of deterrents to move an animal out of an area or discourage an undesirable behavior or activity. Hazing can help maintain a coyote’s fear of humans and deter them from backyards and play spaces.

The simplest method of hazing a coyote involves being loud and large:

Stand tall, wave your arms, and yell at the coyote, approaching them if necessary, until they run away, as demonstrated in this Humane Society video: https://youtu.be/EDm9wjfcdbw?si=gw1uFDWXFEmFqmJk

The coyote may not immediately run away when you yell at them. If this happens, you may need to walk towards the coyote and increase the intensity of your hazing.

The coyote may run away, but then stop after a distance and look at you. It is important to continue until it completely leaves the area. You may need to use different tactics, such as noisemakers, stomping your feet, or spraying the coyote with a hose, to get them to leave.

For more tips, tricks and information about hazing coyotes, visit the Humane Society website: https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/coyote-hazing

About the Mountain Lion

Mountain lions are usually tawny- to light-cinnamon in color with black-tipped ears and tail. Adult cats can weigh from 80 to 150 pounds and measure eight feet long, with the tail included. Most active from dusk to dawn, lions eat deer; however, they also kill elk, porcupines, small mammals, livestock, and other domestic animals. Historically the mountain lion has occupied all parts of Los Alamos County.

Mountain lion activity in Los Alamos becomes more common during the colder months as mountain lions head to lower elevations to find food. Though the risk to humans is low, we encourage community members to take precautions and be prepared if they encounter a mountain lion.

If you encounter a mountain lion, follow these quick tips:

STAY CALM if you come upon a lion. Talk calmly and firmly to it.

DO NOT APPROACH a lion. Most mountain lions will try to avoid confrontation. Give them a way to escape.

STOP or BACK AWAY SLOWLY if you can do so safely. Running may stimulate a lion’s instinct to chase and attack. Face the lion and stand upright. Do not crouch down or bend over.

Do all you can to APPEAR LARGER. Raise your arms. Open your jacket if you're wearing one. If you have small children with you, protect them by picking them up so they won't panic and run.

If approaching you, start THROWING THINGS at it.

To reduce the risk on your property:

• Install outdoor lighting
• Don't leave pets unattended outside, especially in the dark
• Supervise children outdoors
• Make your yard less attractive to lions by removing potential food sources

All About the Mule Deer

It's a good time to talk about DEER on the Pajarito Plateau! Today, there are perhaps 300,000 mule deer and the less-common white-tailed deer combined in our state. Food, water, and productive cover govern the numbers of deer. Harsh winters may force deer to lower elevations, while mild summers will place them at timberline.

Suburban areas invite deer in with resources that are more easily accessible than in mature woods. Grassy parks, blooming gardens, and ornamental plants provide good nutrition, leading to excellent physical condition and higher reproductive rates of deer. Safe from hunting and predators, and sometimes fed intentionally, deer become habituated to people and occupy public and private spaces.

For some, the presence of deer is a welcomed wildlife viewing opportunity, while for others it means disturbed garden beds, a threat of disease, and road hazards. Competing attitudes towards deer lead to differing perceptions of severity and frequency of conflicts. Over the next month we will take a look at several issues regarding living with deer on the Pajarito Plateau, and how we can prevent conflicts, as well as support a healthy and safe living for these beautiful creatures.

Winter feeding of mule deer can lead to disease transmission, predation, and other negative effects.

Human compassion makes people want to help mule deer with winter-feeding programs. Winter feeding of mule deer creates artificially high concentrations of animals, leading to increased risks, including disease transmission and predation. Human disturbance can reduce a mule deer's body condition and increase their energy use, which can impact their survival and reproduction. Winter-feeding also has the potential to disrupt both winter foraging activities and migratory patterns. Unlike elk, mule deer are highly selective foragers, at least in part, due to their specialized digestive system. Winter-fed mule deer often die with full stomachs due to their inability to adapt to rapid changes in type and abundance of feed.  

As mule deer learn the locations of feeding stations, they continue to visit these sites, may fail to recognize the need for migration, and then share the information with each successive year’s offspring. Winter-feeding locations generate artificially high animal densities at feeding sites. These high densities of animals provide ideal opportunities for the transmission of diseases and parasites.  Winter feeding in areas highly populated by humans may create significant liability issues in terms of attracting predatory animals such as mountain lions, and can attract deer into high traffic areas, causing an increase in vehicle accidents. 

Both proponents and opponents of winter feeding believe they have the deer’s best interest in mind. We must focus on the sustainability of the mule deer population for generations to come – not just one season. Changing nature by winter feeding is a complex matter involving numerous issues. At best, winter feed of mule deer is only successful in making people who are compassionate about wildlife feel better and seldom are any benefits of winter feeding realized.

Mule deer have several strategies for surviving the winter, including:

Conserving energy - Mule deer limit their movement and physical activity to conserve energy. 

Finding shelter - Mule deer seek shelter from the wind and cold in thickets, under evergreen trees, and in other areas with lots of vegetation. They also look for areas with snow that's not too deep. 

Migrating - Mule deer may migrate to a "winter range" or "deeryard" that offers protection from the elements, good browse, and thermal cover. 

Adapting their diet - Mule deer may eat twigs, bark, and other woody plants when their preferred food sources are scarce. They also use their antlers to brush away snow from their food sources. 

Withstanding cold temperatures - Mule deer are well-adapted to cold climates and can withstand temperatures as low as -40°F. Their thick fur helps insulate them. 

Learn more about Understanding Mule Deer and Winter Feeding. Visit the Living with Wildlife website to learn more about the animals of the Pajarito Plateau.

DEER Fun Facts

• Their sense of smell is 1000 times stronger than a human's. They can smell a person up to half a mile away and can detect water up to 2 feet underground.
• A mule deer's eyes are located on the side of its head, providing 310 degrees of vision. Mule deer have better night vision than humans and can spot predators up to 600 meters away.
• Antlers can grow up to 1/4 inch per day. Antler growth stops in August and then the antlers harden. Bucks will use their antlers to fight each other for a doe when in rut. Antlers are then shed after the mating season and re-grow in the spring.
• Mule deer have no upper teeth, only a hard palate.
• When startled, a mule deer will bounce away by pushing all four hooves off the ground at once. This is called "stotting." Mule deer can jump 2 feet high and up to 15 feet in distance. Mule deer can run up to 45 MPH.

Living with Mule Deer Fawns

Every year, Los Alamos County and NM Game & Fish receive numerous phone calls from the public concerning abandoned newborn fawns. In almost every instance, the fawns have not been abandoned and are waiting for the doe to return to nurse. People who find newborn fawns should never approach or pick them up—doing so dramatically decreases the probability that fawns will survive.

"Hiding" Behavior

Shortly after birth, mule deer fawns exhibit hiding behavior to avoid detection and maximize survival. Newborn fawns are licked clean by the doe to minimize scent and have a spotted coat to help camouflage them. Newborn fawns spend more than 95 percent of their time hiding. Fawns are typically alone, or within a few meters of their twin, during most of the day for the first week of life. They only stand a few times each day when the doe comes to nurse them. Once nursed, the mother nudges the fawn back to the ground and leaves the immediate area— usually remaining just a few hundred meters away. This pattern will continue for up to 3 weeks. By this time the fawns are mature enough to keep up with their mother and able to race out of real or perceived danger.

I’ve found a deer fawn (baby deer). What should I do?

Under most circumstances, the best thing a person can do is to immediately leave the area to avoid creating any additional disturbance near the fawn. Approaching or handling newborn fawns increases their stress level and threatens their survival.

The fawn was alone, with no mother protecting it. It is so small and helpless and it doesn’t even move when I approach it. Does it need help?

No, the fawn does not need your help. The fawn is well camouflaged and has very little odor, which helps it hide from predators. Fawns instinctively lie motionless when approached by a potential predator. A fawn's heart rate will also drop dramatically as another way of protecting itself.

It looks hungry, should I feed it?

People should never feed anything to a fawn. Just like an adult deer, fawns have very specific nutritional requirements and improper nutrition will make the fawn sick and may lead to its death.

My children touched or moved the fawn and I’m afraid the mother won’t take it back - what should I do?

The doe-fawn bond is very strong. A mother deer will not avoid her fawn if there are human or pet odors on it. Fawns are rarely abandoned, except in extreme cases where the fawn has defects that will prevent its survival. If moved, the fawn should be placed in or next to natural vegetation near the location where it was found to provide cover and protection. The doe will avoid the area until the disturbance has passed, after which she will search for the missing fawn. If more than 24 hours have passed, the fawn may need attention from a wildlife rehabilitator. In this case, call NM Game & Fish at 888-248-6866 (toll-free) or 505-476-8000. In an emergency, call 9-1-1.

Why we don't want to feed the deer: A Three-Part Series

Part 1: Does the forest support the deer population following a wildfire?

The natural pattern of recovery after a wildfire is referred to as “ecological succession.” This is the process whereby the land, plants, and wildlife move through various ecological stages to return to a state of relative stability. It’s like hitting the “reset” button on the life cycle of a forest.

Low-intensity fires burn close to the ground, “cleaning” and thinning the forest by removing thick and flammable vegetation from the forest floor. High-severity fires burn with high heat, climb into and remove the tree canopy, and can scorch the soil and tree roots, causing a more severe impact on vegetation and wildlife. More light reaches the forest floor post-fire, and fire-adapted plants regenerate.

After a fire, burned forests can be lush with shrubs and other vegetation that deer favor as summer forage. Deer generally prefer burned areas for about 20 years post-fire, which is the time it takes for the forest to move beyond the initial regrowth stage. Burns can create a win-win for deer: more food and less risk of being detected by a predator.

To learn more about wildfire in the Jemez Mountains and its impact on the ecosystem, visit the Valles Caldera Wildland Fire webpage.

Part 2: Jemez Mountain forest restoration, wildfire, and habitat selection by female mule deer

A brief history and the necessary response...

Decades of fire suppression, logging, and overgrazing have led to increased densities of small-diameter trees which have been associated with decreases in biodiversity, reduced habitat quality for wildlife species, degraded foraging conditions for ungulates [such as mule deer, elk, and sheep], and more frequent and severe wildfires. In response, land managers are implementing forest restoration treatments using prescribed fire and thinning to mitigate the risk of catastrophic wildfires and improve habitat conditions for a variety of wildlife species.

[source: Science Direct - link below]

Studies and observations...

In 2022, eleven years after the Las Conchas Fire, National Park Service staff began revisiting [burned] plots in the Valles Caldera National Preserve and graduate students from the University of New Mexico are analyzing the data to better understand post-fire ecological succession. This project is crucial in helping land managers understand the ecological role of fire and its long-term effects on the landscape in order to better preserve and restore this fire-adapted landscape.

source: NPS - NPS Article on Vegetation Recovery

Ecosystems are dynamic, with plants and animals responding to disturbances like wildfires and habitat loss. Researchers are monitoring the behaviors of four large mammal species - mountain lions, black bears, elk, and mule deer - to determine how ecosystem changes can impact their habitat preferences. How these large mammals respond to ecosystem changes over time will help park managers implement restoration treatments that mitigate wildfire risk and enhance habitats.

During this study, researchers captured and monitored 34 mule deer. The mule deer largely selected forest areas burned by prescribed fire and generally avoided wildfire-burned and thinned areas when they were [younger than] 5 years old. However, mule deer strongly selected thinned areas [at and over] 5 years old.

The next phase of the project is to analyze changes in habitat selection of these large mammals across a broad area of ecosystem disturbance. This analysis will help inform future decisions regarding forest management, wildfire mitigation, and habitat restoration at Valles Caldera National Preserve and beyond.

source: NPS - NPS Article on the Large Mammal Project

To learn more about research done by Science Direct in their Forest Ecology and Management study, as well as additional documented studies around wildfire in the Jemez Mountains and its impact on the ecosystem, mule deer, and black bears, click here: Science Direct Full Article

Part 3: What's wrong with feeding the deer?

Two important things to highlight have both ecological and physical consequences.

Deer support a healthy ecosystem…

Well-intentioned people will feed mule deer, under the assumption it will ensure their survival out of concern for lack of food sources. Unfortunately, feeding of any kind causes more harm than good to mule deer and only furthers their decline. Mule deer are adapted to their environment and specifically to the plants they rely on to survive. Throughout the summer they eat highly nutritious plants to build up their fat stores. Through the winter they eat less overall and transition to eating woody plants that are less nutritious while they utilize their fat stores for energy and survival.

Deer are browsers and will feed on tree bark, shrubs, grasses, forbs, flowers, and other nutrient-rich plant materials. Some of these plants rely on animals like deer and won’t germinate unless they pass through the digestive tract of an animal. The deer go to where food is readily available, which in a healthy ecosystem is the forest that provides them the food and nutrients they need. When fed by humans, deer will become lazy and stop foraging for food and doing their part in the life cycle of these plants, causing them to dwindle and become scarce. This negatively impacts the forest's healthy ecosystem and how it supports all the wildlife of the forest.

Deer have specialized digestive tracks…

Unlike elk, mule deer are highly selective foragers due to their specialized digestive system. Mule deer digestive systems contain specific bacteria that help break down only the plants they are meant to eat and are adapted to. The bacteria adjust slowly to match their diet through each season, and in the winter their gut contains the appropriate bacteria to digest only their winter diet of woody materials.

Any human-provided food sources, including hay, apples, corn, etc., are simply not digestible and cause an abundance of lactic acid, acidosis, dehydration, and ultimately death. Fed mule deer often die from starvation with full stomachs of food they cannot digest.

In August, mule deer bucks exhibit a variety of behaviors, including:

Feeding

Mule deer eat a lot to keep up with the energy needed to grow their antlers. They eat grasses, forbs, and other broad-leafed vegetation, such as bitterbrush, dandelion, mountain bluebell, and clover.

Bedding

Mule deer bed early and feed late. They often bed in the open under a single tree, scanning for danger.

Antler growth

Mule deer antlers are still in velvet in August, and the velvet makes them appear larger than they will be after the velvet is shed. Bucks' antlers begin to harden at the end of August, and they strip their velvet around the 15th.

Group structure

Mule deer bucks are often in bachelor groups with other bucks of the same age. Young bucks may be with does or with a group of adolescent bucks.

Elevation

Mature bucks tend to prefer higher elevations because they are cooler and have fewer bugs.

By September Mule Deer bucks are…

• Rubbing off and Shedding their velvet and summer coats in early September
• Continue to hang out in bachelor groups for a few weeks
• Spend more time in thicker areas, feeding and browsing longer in cover
• Actively trying to gain fat reserves to prepare for winter starvation
• Larger bucks will start to break away from the group and be off on their own or in small groups by early October
• Often bed close to where they feed

About the Abert's Squirrel

Fun Facts about the Abert's Squirrel:

• Abert’s squirrels were named after John James Abert, an American naturalist who influenced the in mapping of the American West in the 1800s.
• Abert’s squirrels are commonly known as tassel-eared squirrels for their ear tufts.
• Abert’s Squirrels have extremely flexible legs allowing them to quickly climb up and down trees.
• They can hang on a tree limb with just their rear feet while being able to use their front feet to handle food.
• Abert’s squirrels are extremely adaptable and are known to frequent bird feeders.
• Abert’s squirrels are most frequently seen at elevations of 6,000 to 9,000 feet.
• They put on extra weight in the fall to keep them warm in winter.
• Abert’s squirrels are solitary foragers, spending most of their time during the day looking for food.
• While males do not help to raise their young, they will guard their mates.
• Abert’s squirrels live, nest, feed and seek refuge from enemies mostly in Ponderosa pine forests, but also can be found in mixed coniferous forests where they are likely to have been introduced by humans.
• All Abert’s squirrels have prominent ear tufts and long, bushy tails. During the winter, ear tassels measure about an inch in length, but become shorter in summer.
• The tail — being half of their length — it is often used as an umbrella to shade from overheating
• Abert’s squirrels are active year-round from sunrise to sunset, retiring at night and during fowl weather. 
• Abert’s will bark if exited.
• Abert’s do not hibernate but will sleep through periods of cold and resume foraging as temperatures warm.
• Ponderosa pines provide the primary diet — seeds, buds, inner bark and the male cones are all eaten. Clipped ponderosa pine debris on the ground may indicate squirrels feeding above. Moisture in fungi provide an important water source. Mushrooms are eaten all summer and if available year-round.
• Hawks are the primary natural predator of the Abert’s squirrel, followed by coyotes, mountain lions and bobcats. Young squirrels especially, are particularly vulnerable to predation by feral and domestic cats.

About the Bald Eagle...

With its dark brown body and white head and tail, the adult Bald Eagle is one of the easiest birds to identify in the field. Other identification marks include its yellow, massive beak (disproportionately large for its head), yellow ceres (nostrils), black clawed yellow feet, bare yellow legs, and lemon-colored eyes.

Adult females range from 30" to 43" tall, weigh up to 14 pounds, and have about an eight-foot wingspan. The male is smaller, standing 27" to 30" tall, weighing 7 to 10 pounds, with a six-foot wingspan.

Attitudes about Bald Eagles

When European colonists first arrived in North America, there were an estimated quarter million to half million bald eagles living in what is now the United States. This handsome eagle, native to North America, was selected as the national emblem of our new nation in 1782. However, despite its status as a national symbol, the bald eagle declined between 1782 and 1940. Eagles came to be viewed as killers of livestock, therefore ‘varmints’ to be eliminated. 

In the early 20th Century, a bounty was set for bald eagles, paying 50 cents for each pair of feet; this reward was later increased to a dollar. It is estimated that more than 100,000 bald eagles were killed before 1940, when the Bald Eagle Act was passed, banning the killing or selling of bald eagles in the United States.

Today the main threat to New Mexico’s wintering bald eagles, and to its small breeding population, is habitat loss or degradation. Human disturbance, pesticide contamination, accidental electrocution, illegal shooting and poisoning, and trapping eagles for their feathers continues to be a problem.

Bald Eagle Lifestyle

Bald eagles feed primarily on fish, such as carp and suckers, and waterfowl. They may harass ospreys to force them to disgorge their prey. Bald eagles will also feed on carrion, including dead livestock and road-killed deer. Dry-land bald eagles typically prey upon jackrabbits.

Bald eagle pairs mate for life. Together, they build a large stick nest high in a dead snag, less frequently on a cliff. Eagles tend to use the same nest, year after year, adding to the massive pile of sticks annually.

Fun facts about the Bald Eagle!

• Bald is a deviation of balde, an old English word meaning white. The eagle was named for its white feathers instead of a lack of feathers.

• Bald eagles can swim

• They can fly at altitudes over 10,000 feet

• Their eyesight is 8 times stronger than ours

• The grip of a bald eagle talon is 10x stronger than that of humans

• Had Benjamin Franklin prevailed, America's emblem might have been the wild turkey not the bald eagle

• The largest bald eagle nest on record, in St. Petersburg, Florida, was 10 feet in diameter and 20 feet tall

About the Golden Eagle...

Adult Golden Eagles are dark brown with a golden sheen on the back of the head and neck. For their first several years of life, young birds have neatly defined white patches at the base of the tail and in the wings.

Golden Eagles are one of the largest birds in North America. Their wingspan stretches 72 to 86 inches. They measure 27" to 33" inches in length and weigh 6 to 13 pounds. Females Golden Eagles are also larger than males. 

Golden Eagle Lifestyle

Usually found alone or in pairs, Golden Eagles typically soar or glide with wings lifted into a slight “V” and the wingtip feathers spread like fingers. They capture prey on or near the ground, locating it by soaring, flying low over the ground, or hunting from a perch. They are carnivores that prey mainly on small mammals. While capable of killing large prey, they typically hunt small mammals, such as hares, rabbits, ground squirrels, prairie dogs, and marmots. They’re also known to kill larger mammals like mountain goats, coyotes, badgers, bobcats, and seals (in coastal areas). Golden eagles are also scavengers, feeding on carrion. However, while the same size as the bald eagle, the golden eagle is less of a scavenger and more of a predator.

Golden eagles mate for life. During courtship, two birds circle high in the air, making shallow dives at each other. About one to three months before laying eggs, the pair will build a nest of sticks and vegetation. Their nest can be found on cliffs, in trees, on the ground, or in human-made structures, typically near their hunting grounds. They may use their nest site for many years and may have an alternate nest site. Their nests are huge, averaging 5-6" wide, 2" high, and enclosing a bowl about 3" by 2" deep. Golden Eagles favor partially or completely open country, especially around mountains, hills, and cliffs. They use a variety of habitats ranging from arctic to desert, including tundra, shrublands, grasslands, coniferous forests, farmland, and areas along rivers and streams.

Threats to Golden Eagles

The greatest threat to the golden eagle is human activity. It’s estimated that more than 70% of recorded golden eagle deaths are attributable to human impact. Most recorded deaths are from collisions with vehicles, wind turbines, and other structures or from electrocution at power poles.

Habitat loss is another major threat, as urbanization and agricultural developments have compromised their nesting and hunting grounds. Some eagles die after eating poisoned prey animals set out to control coyotes, and others succumb to lead poisoning from ammunition in hunter-shot prey.

Comparing the Bald and Golden Eagles

About the Beaver

Have you seen the busy beaver?

Beavers modify their environment to create habitat for food, shelter and protection. With rocks, mud, logs and sticks beavers dam shallow streams and form ponds in which they construct lodges. Dams may reach heights of six feet or more and extend over large areas to form complex networks.

Beaver dams increase total water surface area, stabilize stream flows, prevent erosion, and raise the level of water tables. As ponds behind beaver dams fill, new nesting, feeding and winter habitat for trout, cavity nesting and migratory birds and other mammals is created. Retention of water improves soil and helps plant diversity, such as increases of Alder, willow and cottonwood trees which are staples of the beaver diet.

Visit the Valles Caldera National Preserve and keep an eye out in the streams. Have you seen the busy beaver?

How do they do that?

Beavers are the largest members of the rodent family in North America. Adults weigh an average of 44 pounds and measure approximately 42 inches. Noted for prominent chisel-shaped front teeth (incisors) and large paddle-shaped tails (a third of the body’s length), beavers are notorious woodcutters and industrious dam builders.

The broad tail and webbed hind feet serve this semi-aquatic mammal well. Small eyes with transparent inner eyelids enable vision underwater, and the ears and nose can be closed while submerged. Able to remain underwater for considerable periods, dives may last up to 15 minutes.

Beavers are social and live in small family colonies consisting of four to eight related individuals—often a mated pair and several one- to two-year-old offspring. Adult females are usually the dominant member of the colony.

Beavers are herbivores, feeding on aspen, poplar, birch, willow and Alder. They do not eat wood but rather the layer of cambium tissue underneath bark. Twirling stems with their forefeet, beavers slice off bark with their incisors—similar to humans eating corn-on-the-cob. Beavers also eat buds, roots, herbaceous plants and the tubers of aquatic plants.

Beavers are making a comeback...

Before widespread fur trapping began in the 17th century, there were likely between 100 million and 400 million beavers in North America. Nearly every waterway held beavers. But by 1900 there were only an estimated 100,000 beavers left in North America.

Trapping has waned and protections for beavers have increased. And there are now an estimated 10 million to 15 million beavers in North America. As the climate crisis worsens, water disappears, wildfires ravage the west, and the cycle of drought and flooding becomes more intense, people are increasingly looking for solutions. Beavers and their dams can be an incredibly potent and inexpensive way to help New Mexico’s landscapes, people, and wildlife.

About the GRAY FOX

The Gray Fox is smaller than most people think, averaging 10–15 pounds in size. They eat mostly mice, voles, bird eggs, rabbits, insects, and native fruits such as blueberries, blackberries, chokecherries, and black cherries. They’ll also eat poultry, lambs, piglets, carrion, and cats. Sometimes, they bury food for later use, especially around the den site, when raising their pups.

The Gray fox tends to live in forested and brushy areas, often found in drier piñon/juniper habitats. It typically dens in wood or brush piles, rocky outcrops, or hollow trees and will often reuse these dens from year to year. Foxes are solitary animals, except during breeding season, when mated pairs and their young live as a family unit.

Gray foxes are monogamous. They stay with their partner for life, and the male and female raise the young together. The average litter size is 3–7 pups, born March through April.

In the spring, Gray foxes may den underneath a porch or in a yard for a while while raising their pups. Foxes generally use more than one den to raise their pups and may move them as many as 2–4 times. They’ll usually leave by the end of June at the latest. These dens aren’t used during other seasons.

How to avoid problems with Gray Foxes

The mere presence of a fox should not be perceived as a problem, and foxes should not be feared. However, those who are uncomfortable with the presence of foxes can take certain actions to reduce the chance of problems. These tips will also help you avoid encounters with large predators!

• Do not allow pets to run free! Keep cats indoors, particularly at night, and small dogs on a leash and always under close supervision.
• NEVER feed foxes! DO NOT put out food for any animals. Feed pets indoors. Clean up fruit dropped from trees and bird seed below feeders. Secure garbage in animal-proof containers and store it in a garage or shed. Whether direct or indirect, feeding can cause foxes to act tame and may lead to bold behavior over time.
• Close off crawl spaces under decks and sheds. Foxes will use these areas for resting and raising young.
• Protect livestock. Foxes will prey on small livestock, such as ducks, chickens, rabbits, and young lambs, but generally do not bother larger livestock. Livestock can be protected with secure pens, coops, or fencing. Ensure the enclosures prevent entry from above and below, as foxes will dig or squeeze under poorly maintained fences and may climb over small fences. Most predation occurs at night, so providing protection at that time is particularly important. Some electric fence designs can provide good protection and will deter other predators like coyotes and black bears.
• Use frightening techniques. Human presence often deters foxes. Foxes that travel into residential yards can be harassed or scared by loud noises, bright lights, or spraying water from a hose. Disturbing a den site physically or with unnatural odors (e.g., mothballs) during spring may prompt foxes to move to another den, which may be farther away.

Extra Fun-facts About the Grey Fox!

• If a gray fox has more food than it is able to eat, it will cache the remaining food and come back to eat it later. It will mark the spot that the food is buried by peeing on it.
• The female fox can give birth to between 3 and 7 pups, although 4 is average.
• In the wild, gray fox usually live between 7-10 years, although some do live to be much older.
• Grey Foxes possess a unique vocal repertoire, encompassing a variety of sounds such as barks, screams, and chirps. These vocalizations serve as a means of communication, allowing them to convey their intentions or establish territory boundaries.
• The gray fox falls prey to cougars, eagles, owls, bobcats, hawks, coyotes, and humans who kill them for their fur.

About the Jemez Mountain Salamander

Jemez Mountains salamanders have a hairline furrow from the nostril to the edge of the upper lip. There are clusters of teeth at the back of the roof of the mouth. Adults are generally brown with fine, brassy flecks. Throats and under tails are lighter. The total length is 1 1/2 inches to 4 1/ 2 inches, of which about half is tail.

Jemez Mountain salamanders lack lungs and obtain oxygen directly through the skin. The skin is very thin and must be moist for breathing to occur and dryness is quickly fatal.

Their normal food consists of insects and other small invertebrates, including mites and spiders.

Where do we see the Jemez Mountain Salamander? 

While the Jemez Mountains salamander spends much of its life underground, it can be found above ground when relative environmental conditions are warm and wet. This is typically during the monsoon season from July through September, but occasional salamander observations have also been made in May, June and October. 

When active above ground, the species is usually found under decaying coniferous logs, rocks, bark or moss mats. They are also found inside decaying logs or stumps, which they use as cover and daytime retreats.

Did you know that the Jemez Mountain Salamander is an endangered species?

The Jemez Mountain Salamander was listed as an endangered species in 2013.

The biggest threats to Jemez Salamanders include:

• Altered fire regimes. Historical fire exclusion and suppression lead to more severe fire events; this is the main threat to salamander habitat but may also kill individual salamanders.
• Recreational activities. The Jemez Mountains are heavily used for recreation (including mountain biking, hiking, camping, skiing, and off-highway [motorized] vehicle use), and these activities and their related infrastructure may affect individual salamanders and their habitat.
• Potential susceptibility to a disease, chytridiomycosis (or chytrid). This disease is caused by a fungus and has led to major population declines in amphibians worldwide; whether the fungus causes chytrid in the Jemez Mountains salamander is unknown.

About the Raccoon

Raccoons are a common sight in Los Alamos but this doesn't mean they are safe or friendly to humans. In fact, raccoons can be quite dangerous if they get too close. Follow these tips for safety around raccoons:

Keep raccoons from coming too close

If a raccoon approaches too closely, make yourself appear larger: stand up, shout, and wave your arms. If it continues to approach, throw or spray water, or even stones, if needed.

Children should be warned against approaching raccoons and told to yell a set phrase if a raccoon approaches too close (such as "Go Away Raccoon!"). This will help alert adults that they need assistance.

A raccoon that is very aggressive–or too tame, or seems to be disoriented or staggers may be sick or injured. Do not approach the animal yourself, instead contact Animal Control at 505-662-8222 or 877-261-4090 or NM Game & Fish at 505-476-8000 or 888-248-6866.

Preventing conflicts between people and raccoons

• Don’t feed raccoons. If fed, they may become aggressive, even biting or scratching.
• Keep garbage out of reach.  Raccoons are very intelligent and will find ways to get into garbage. Secure garbage with a locking/clamping lid, rope, chains, bungee cords, or weights. On trash day, put the can out in the morning, as raccoons are nocturnal.
• Do not leave pet food out. Feed dogs and cats indoors. If not possible, feed outdoor pets in the late morning/early afternoon. Always pick up food, water bowls, leftovers, and spilled food each day before dusk.
• Keep pets indoors at night. Raccoons will attack dogs or cats if they feel threatened by them, and bites can cause disease or injury.
• Keep pet doors secure. To reduce the attraction of a pet door, never place the pet’s food or water near the inside of the door. Pet doors should always be locked at night. 
• Keep compost secure. Do not put food in a compost pile, rather, put it in a secure, raccoon-proof compost container or a closed structure. This keeps the raccoons from feeding, but it also keeps the compost free of droppings.
• Clean up after barbecues. Always clean grills, grease traps, and the area immediately after cooking.

About the Rattlesnake

The two common species of rattlesnakes in Los Alamos are the prairie rattlesnake and the western diamondback. Prairie rattlesnakes can grow up to 5 feet long and western diamondbacks average between 4 and 6 feet in length. These rattlesnakes are thermosensitive and have a heat-sensitive pit on each side of their head between the nostril and the eye, enabling them to detect and accurately strike in the dark.

Most rattlesnakes live in arid habitats and are nocturnal, hiding during the heat of the day in burrows or under rocks, and emerging in the evening or at twilight to hunt for prey, which consists primarily of small mammals, especially rodents. Rattlesnakes use their tails to make a rattling noise. This noise is intended to make predators aware of its presence.

If you encounter a rattlesnake, follow these TIPS:

• Remain calm and do not panic.
• Stay at least 5 feet away.
• Do not try to kill the snake. This greatly increases the chance the snake will bite you.
• Do not throw anything at the snake, like rocks or sticks. The snake may respond by moving toward you.
• Alert other people to the snake’s location. Keep children and pets away from the area.
• Keep your dog on a leash when hiking or camping.
• If you hear a rattle, don’t jump or panic. Locate where the sound is coming from, so you don’t step closer.
• If bitten by a rattlesnake, call 9-1-1 immediately.

Preventing Rodent Problems…

As the temperature dips, rodents love to warm up in your home’s nooks and crannies just as much as you do. But, there’s good news! You can keep these unwanted invaders out with a few simple housekeeping practices:

• Seal entry points: Inspect your home’s foundation, walls, and around windows and doors for any cracks or gaps, and seal them with caulk, steel wool, or other appropriate materials. 
• Door sweeps: Install door sweeps on exterior doors to block small gaps at the bottom. 
• Food storage: Store all food—including pet food—in airtight containers, especially in pantries and kitchens. 
• Garbage management: Use tightly sealed garbage bins both inside and outside your home. 
• Remove clutter: Declutter your home and remove any unnecessary items that could provide hiding places for rodents. 
• Outdoor maintenance: Clear away debris from around your home’s foundation and store firewood off the ground.

Hantavirus in New Mexico

The Basics

Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome is a sometimes fatal, respiratory disease caused by a virus transmitted by some species of rodents. Cases occur sporadically and are usually associated with heavily infested buildings in rural areas where the rodent hosts live. 

In New Mexico, deer mice are the primary carriers of hantavirus. The virus is found in mice droppings and urine, and individuals are typically exposed to hantavirus in certain settings including places where animal or human food and warmth is found, such as around their homes, cabins or sheds, especially when cleaning out or exploring enclosed areas with mouse droppings.

Symptoms typically develop within one to six weeks after rodent exposure and may look and feel like the flu or a stomach bug. Individuals with HPS may experience fever and muscle aches, possibly accompanied by chills, headache, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain and cough, which can progress to respiratory distress and severe illness. There is no specific treatment or vaccine for hantavirus, so prevention of exposure to the virus is key. The type of hantavirus present in the United States cannot be transmitted from person to person. 

Most human cases of hantavirus occur in the spring and are associated with buildings that became heavily infested with rodents seeking winter shelter. Preventing rodents from entering human structures is the best way to eliminate the risk for hantavirus.

Prevention

• Avoid exposure to rodents and their nests – and reduce the risk of contracting hantavirus – by following these important steps:
• Air out closed‐up buildings such as cabins and sheds, as well as abandoned or stored vehicles before entering.
• Trap mice until they are all gone. 
• Seal up homes and shelters to prevent rodents from entering.
• Soak nests and droppings with a disinfectant such as a 10% bleach solution before cleaning them up.
• Do not sweep up rodent droppings into the air where they can be inhaled.
• Put hay, wood, and compost piles as far as possible from your home.
• Dispose of trash and junk piles.
• Do not leave your pet’s food and water where mice can access it. 

For more information about this virus, including fact sheets in English and Spanish, visit the Department of Health’s HPS webpage. 

How to Prevent Rodents From Chewing Your Car Wires

Here on the Pajarito Plateau, vehicles can be prone to rodent infestation. Proper prevention can help avoid any issues:

Place Traps Around Your Vehicle

Traps are one of the most affordable yet effective methods to stop rats and mice from entering your car engines. To make the trap more effective, you may want to keep in mind a few tips: 

Use more enticing bait: Though rats and mice eat and feed on any food that they can find, some foods are more enticing than others. For example, peanut butter and hazelnut spread works better than other food since these creatures are more attracted to nuts and its byproducts. 

Never handle bait with bare hands: Using bare hands to handle bait can contaminate it with a “human smell” and make it less appealing for rodents. 

Use different traps: Using only one kind of trap may not solve the problem completely. Instead, you might want to buy and place different kinds of traps around your vehicle and assess which kind works the best. 

Check the trap regularly: Checking the trap regularly includes the following: changing the bait regularly, checking if the trap accidentally set off, and checking if the trap has caught any rodents.

Use Deterrents to Repel Rodents

Rats and mice have a sensitive sense of smell so certain items with strong scents can help keep them away. One of the best items to use for repelling rodents is peppermint oil. Spray the peppermint oil on your car wires to deter rodents from your vehicle.

You can also wrap your car wires with rodent-deterrent tape. This kind of tape is laced and treated with capsaicin, a chemical that naturally occurs in chili peppers and makes it spicy. Rodents that chew on this wire will find the taste unpleasant and will learn to leave your car wires alone. 

Block Entrances to Your Vehicle

A car’s vents and hood scoops provide rats and mice with easy access to climb and chew on car wires. To prevent this, you can choose to install a mesh wiring coated with hot sauce or poison on any openings. 

Another way to block rats and mice from entering your vehicle is to park it inside a sealed garage. Seal any access points in the garage, like small gaps and cracks. Use a compound of steel wool and caulk.

Keep Your Car Hood Up

Keeping your car hood up prevents it from becoming a dark, warm place for rats and mice to nest and burrow. 

If you’re parking your car on the street and don’t want to leave your hood up, you can choose to place some lights on the engine or underneath the vehicle so that rodents don’t become comfortable with its coziness. 

Remove Hiding Places Near the Car

Any shrubs, tall grass, and tree limbs provide rodents with easy access to climb your car. When parking your vehicle in open spaces, it’s best to stay away from places with plenty of plants and trees. If possible, you may also choose to trim the grass or shrubs that serve as hiding places. 

When parking a car inside the garage, check the place for any clutter that can serve as hiding or nesting places for rats and mice. 

Run Your Vehicle Regularly

To prevent mice from staying and breeding in your car engines, make it a point to run your vehicle regularly even if you have nowhere to go. The engine’s sound is loud enough to scare rodents away and make them think that the car’s engine is a dangerous place to enter. 

Rodents prefer stability, so driving your car frequently makes it less likely for them to take up residence. 

Avoid Leaving Food in the Car

Rodents are almost always looking for food, so any food makes your car more attractive to the pests. To prevent them from climbing into your vehicle, clean your car regularly and remove any crumbs, food packaging, or scraps that you find inside. 

Garbage cans and any dog or cat food stored in bins are delightful resources for rats and mice, so it’s recommended that you place pet food and garbage cans away from your car.

Cover exposed wires

Cover exposed wires with plastic or steel conduits to make it difficult for rodents to access them. 

About the Rocky Mountain Elk

Valles Caldera is home to the second largest elk herd in New Mexico. These animals provide visitor enjoyment, revenue to local economies, and sustenance for families. Primarily grazers, elk have a diverse habitat range but are often found in open grasslands or meadows near forest edges. In mountain regions, they generally stay in higher elevations during warmer months and migrate to lower elevations in the winter.

Elk are an important food source for bears, mountain lions, coyotes, and numerous scavenger species. Elk browsing and nitrogen deposition can affect vegetative production, soil fertility, and plant diversity. Thus, changes in elk abundance over space and time can alter plant and animal communities at Valles Caldera.

In Los Alamos County and the nearby region, Rocky Mountain Elk are often active near or on the roadways from dusk until the morning hours. In the winter months, they are often seen at lower elevations, and closer to town. Travelers should always watch carefully for these and other animals when traveling in the area.

Elk are usually copper brown to light beige in color and their legs and neck often darker than body. Adult cows (female elk) can weigh up to 500 pounds and measure four and a half feet in height at the shoulder. Adult bulls (male elk) can weigh up to 700 pounds and measure five feet in height at the shoulder.

During the month of October, the elk becomes the star of the show here in the Jemez Mountains. Known for being more visible and vocal during the fall season, spectators flock to the Valles Caldera for a chance to watch and hear these magnificent creatures. But what are the elk doing?

How old is that elk?

A bull elk is defined by the number of points it produces, called "tines." An elk with a total of 12 antler points (6x6 or 6-point) is called a ''royal" bull; one with 14 points (7X7 or 7-point) is an "imperial," and one with 16 points (8X8 or 8-point) is a monarch. 

Most mature bull elk are 6x6s. An elk's first antlers are usually spikes. In a good habitat, a bull may have a 5-point rack as a 2-1/2-year-old and then a small six-point rack as a 3-1/2-year-old. Its best antlers, however, usually come at age 9-1/2 to 12-½. Some bulls never grow the sixth point, and some grow a seventh, and rarely, even more. Most mature bull elk are 6x6s. 

Generally speaking, a bull's antler rack becomes larger and wider the older he gets. The term “trophy elk” means the elk is 6-10 years old. The life span of a bull elk averages 10 to 13 years in the wild. 

Bulls retain their antlers through the winter. Those with large antlers that are retained longer are at the top of the elk social structure, allowing them preferential access to feeding sites and mates.

Antler Quick Facts

• Antlers are usually symmetrical and occur in males or, very occasionally, females.
• Bulls shed and grow a new set of antlers every year.New antlers are covered in fuzzy skin called velvet. Antlers harden by late summer and the velvet peels away. By September, antlers are solid bone.
• The antlers of a typical, healthy bull are 55–60 inches long, just under six feet wide, and weigh about 30 pounds per pair, but can weigh up to 40 pounds.
• One-year-old bulls grow 10–20 inch spikes, sometimes forked. Two-year-old bulls usually have slender antlers with 4 to 5 points. Three-year-old bulls have thicker antlers. Four-year-old and older bulls typically have 6 points; antlers are thicker and longer each year. Eleven- or twelve-year-old bulls often grow the heaviest antlers; after that age, the size of antlers generally diminishes.

The Rut

• Elk behavior during the fall season is called the rut. Elk breed in the fall and exhibit various behaviors that are more aggressive and visible than at other times of year. 
• Bulls gather cows and calves into small groups called harems
• Bulls wallow in mud to coat themselves with urine “perfume” to attract cows
• They also bugle and rub trees, shrubs, and the ground with their antlers to attract cows and intimidate other bulls
• Bulls aggressively guard their harems from other bulls
• Sometimes, bulls wage violent battles for a harem, occasionally even fighting to the death

Elk Talk: Vocalizations

Elk are among the noisiest ungulates, communicating danger quickly and identifying each other by sound. There are several different types of vocalizations, each meaning something very different:

• High-pitched squeal: Newborn to its mother, who recognizes her calf by its voice.
• Bark: Warning of danger.
• Chirps, mews, and miscellaneous squeals: General conversation among the group.
• Bugling (bellow escalating to squealing whistle ending with a grunt): Bull advertising his fitness to cows, warning other bulls to stay away, or announcing his readiness to fight.

Body Postures

• Watch for these common body postures when watching the elk interact with other elk, other animals, and even people:
• When alarmed, elk raise their heads high, open their eyes wide, move stiffly, and rotate their ears to listen
• If a harem cow wanders, a bull stretches his neck out low, tips up his nose, tilts his antlers back, and circles her
• Elk threaten each other by curling back their upper lip, grinding their teeth, and hissing softly
• Agitated elk hold their heads high, lay their ears back and flare their nostrils, and sometimes even punch with their front hooves

For more information about the elk, visit https://www.rmef.org/elk-facts/, or the Valles Caldera National Preserve athttps://www.nps.gov/vall/learn/nature/rocky-mountain-elk.htm.

Mating Season

The mating season (rut) generally occurs from early September to mid-October. Elk gather in mixed herds—many females and calves, with a few bulls nearby. Bulls bugle to announce their availability and fitness to females and to warn and challenge other bulls. When answered, bulls move toward one another and sometimes engage in battle for access to the cows. They crash their antlers together, push each other intensely, and wrestle for dominance. While loud and extremely strenuous, fights rarely cause serious injury. The weaker bull ultimately gives up and wanders off.

To learn more about the elk at the Valles Caldera, visit the National Park website.

May-July is Elk Calving Season: Please Don't Touch!

Elk calving season is from mid-May to early July. NMG&F receives numerous calls each year during this time from concerned individuals who find what they think are orphaned or abandoned elk calves. Some people pick up the animals and take them to local veterinarians, zoos, or their local Game Department offices. While there is no intention of harming the young animals, people need to realize that picking up these babies greatly decreases their chances of survival. 

Elk calves have white spots at birth and weigh between 30-40 pounds. Within 30 minutes of birth, they can stand and nurse. They gain over one pound per day! For the first few days of their life, instinct tells them to remain motionless and hide from any potential predators, but after about five days, they have gained enough weight and strength to keep up with their mother. Mother and calf will then rejoin the herd after about 7-14 days.

If you come across a newborn elk, the mother is likely close by. Do not approach the calf. Use common sense and follow these tips:

• Don't approach it. Watch it or take a photo of it from a distance, but don't go near it. In almost every case, the young animal has NOT been abandoned by its mother. In addition, female elk, or cows, become irritable and highly protective of their young calves. You might be putting yourself in danger!
• Don't touch it or pet it. Finding and petting newly born animals is a problem because their survival depends on being left alone and undetected by predators. If you touch an animal, you may leave your scent on it, which could attract predators.
• Give it plenty of space. Even if you don't touch the fawn or calf, getting too close can cause it to run away from you, resulting in the animal using the energy it needs to survive.
• Never attempt to remove a fawn or calf from the wild or take it home. NMG&F officers occasionally respond to instances where an individual has taken a baby deer or elk home to "care for it." However, that often has fatal consequences for the animal and can also create public safety risks as the animal matures. If you believe that a baby animal is injured or sick, report it to the NMG&F call center.

About the Skunk

Skunk Habitat Skunks are extremely adaptable and thrive in many different habitats, as long as food and shelter are available. Because they rarely travel more than 2 miles from their established dens, a skunk will typically settle down within 2 miles of a water source.

Dens are made in tree hollows, hollowed-out logs, brush piles, abandoned animal burrows, and underneath porches and other structures. Skunks will occasionally dig their burrows underground if no other shelter options are available.

Skunk Diet

Though they typically prefer to dine on insects and grubs, skunks are omnivores, consuming a vast diet of both plant and animal matter. Skunks are opportunistic eaters, and their diets are flexible, often shifting with the seasons. Some of the skunks' favorite foods include beetles, grasshoppers, grubs and worms, bird eggs, small rodents, frogs, fruit and berries, and mushrooms.

New meaning to the term "skunked!"

Nothing says "I love you" more than a strong smelling perfume...or rather "I don't love you, please go away!" as the skunk believes! It's officially skunk mating season, which is roughly two months long, usually beginning in February and ending in March. During mating season, neighborhoods may notice an increase in skunk odors. Males will come from up to six miles away to find a mate. While love is in the air, a female skunk can discourage a male’s advances by emitting an odor. The increased and pungent aroma is actually a sign of females repelling males in pursuit of the right mate.